ICELAND

Before writing about the beer or the beer history in Iceland, I have to talk about the people I met there.

Iceland can be consider by many as the land of ice, but even traveling all over the world, I haven’t met yet such welcoming people like the Icelanders (and I am from Brazil!!). But anywhere I was visiting or talking to people they were all opened to answer all my questions, they were interested about what I was doing and, of course, they were inviting me to drink beer!

"Cheers" in Icelandic

And, it was over some beer drinking that I talked to the people and I found out the real “strong” history about the beer and the alcohol consumption in Iceland.

So the funny fact started in 1908 with a referendum where the Icelanders voted in favour of a ban on all alcoholic drinks, going into effect 1 January 1915 (because they had to finish all the remain alcohol).  Probably somebody thought that the Icelanders were drinking too much, maybe true!

In 1922, came the trade embargo from Spain, where the Spanish said they would not buy the ‘bacalhau’ (salted codfish) from Iceland, if Iceland do not buy their wine. Since the bacalhau was the only product that Iceland was exporting, they decided it was a good idea. Therefore, the Spanish saved Iceland bringing their wine! The law was amended and the economy flows again.

Since they started to have their homebrew (when the Spanish was brought to Iceland), in 1933 there was a referendum to bring the alcohol back, but just spirits were legalized. Beer above 2,25% alcohol was still banned! What?? Exactly! For some reason the people who could vote in the referendum where men above 40 years old and in good financial condition, and they thought that if beer was allowed children and poor people would start to get addicted and would create a social problem since beer was cheaper to buy.

Nevertheless, in 1939, during the WWII, the beer production started “officially” with the Britain arrival. Well, not exactly, what it was made was a Polar Ale, but it was made for export, since inside any country army base is consider export, right?

One year later, in 1940, the Americans arrived (with bigger guns), so you must keep them happy, and in order to that, the Polar Ale recipe was changed and transformed in a lager, together with a good marketing.

During this time, people in Iceland could drink beer if ‘inside’ one of those bases; however, it was still forbidden outside it.

On Wednesday though was consider an alcohol free day, because it was a day off in the American base and to avoid the innocent women going out with the American soldiers this law was created. I have to mention here that it didn’t work really well, since I met some people that was a result of this alcohol free Wednesday!

Bills to legalize beer were regularly put to the Icelandic parliament, but they were always rejected. In order to get around this, Icelanders would try to imitate the real thing by adding legal spirits to legal non-alcoholic beer, called Pilsner. On 1 March 1989, ironically, Wednesday, was declared a law where would be allowed again the production of beer for the intern market. It actually became a huge news in the world. However, you still cannot find anything stronger than 2.25% in any shop except the state-run chain Vínbúðin (meaning the wine shop).

Nowadays, Iceland is producing a very good quality in general, and many styles. In addition, what helps to make this beer so good is their Icelandic water, very pure and famous!

The different beers brewed by Ölgerdin Egil Skallagrímsson

Their main and bigger brewery is Ölgerdin Egill Skallagrímsson and they also own a microbrewery, the Borg, where they use like a playground to create and try new recipes and seasonal beers.

Most part of the beers I have tried while I was in Iceland where from them, like:

Gull: a lager beer, with a strong floral aroma, very fresh and citrusy. It was consider the best standard lager by the WBA (World Beer Awards) 2011. Its name comes from de word Skull that is used in Icelandic to say Cheers and a Viking way! ABV: 5%.

Sumar Gull: more floral aroma than the Gull and also lighter to the palate, extremely fresh. ABV: 5%.

Bríó: german pilsner. WBA in 2012. Its floral hoppy aroma given with some tangerine notes makes this beer worth an award. ABV: 4,8%.

Polar Beer: American lager. Aroma is mixed of flowers and citrusy. ABV: 4,7%

Úlfur nr. 3: an IPA, has a unique floral bouquet in its aroma, the color is a beautiful medium yellow and the taste is slightly bitter, but which IPA is not? But, so far, this has become my favorite IPA! ABV: 5,9%

The many awards!

Myrkvi nr. 13: a porter. If you like chocolate and beer, you will love this one! The dark chocolate aroma, together with a cappuccino/port wine taste makes this soft porter the ideal desert by itself! ABV: 6% 

Garún nr. 19: an Icelandic Stout. It is named after a legendary woman from one of the most famous tales in Iceland (The deacon of Dark River (Myrká)). It has a very strong character with coffee coming as a first thought when you smell and look at it. It is very licorish and reminds a lot when you have a coffee toffee, however this one is extremely alcoholic with ABV: 11,5%.

But if you are in Iceland and want to try a good selection of local and imported beers, you should go to the Micro Bar, located inside the Center Hotel. They offer on tap 10 local beers that you can try the small sample combination. In those 10 are:

Gaedingur Stout: roasted coffee and nuts aroma. It is very soft to drink.

Bruggsmidjon IPA: very hoppy and floral.But one of the bitterest IPA I have ever tried.

Gaedingur IPA: citrusy and orange zest aroma. In addition, you can feel it in the palate.

Gaedingur Hveittbjor: wheat beer. Very hazy but smells like roses and taste like fennel tea. Great option if you are not a beer fan and want to start in this world (maybe just to follow your boyfriend/husband).

Nordan Kaldi: lager. ABV 5%.

Gaedingur Imperial Stout: at the day I was there, it unfortunately was not available. ABV: 5%

Skjálfti: lager. Barley and breadcrumb aroma. ABV 5%.

Lava: stout. Roast coffee notes and espresso taste. It feels strong and heavy.

Gestir: double IPA. The citrus aroma from the hops is something that comes out at a first thought.

Gaedingur Pale Ale: it reminds a floral parfum. Extremely refreshing. ABV 4,5%.

As you can see, Gaedingur and Ölvisholt Brugghús are also important breweries in Iceland.

Wherever you go in Iceland and Reykjavik, enjoy the best of it, people are amazing and very warm welcoming!

I have to thank to everyone who made my visit in there some amazing and memorable, especially Sylvia from the Ölgerdin Egill Skallagrímsson and Steinn from Microbar. I learnt a lot with both of you and I hope I can visit you soon!

Needless to say, such a small country with great beer and great people is always worth a visit!