Before writing about the beer or the beer history in
Iceland, I have to talk about the people I met there.
Iceland can be consider by many as the land of ice, but even
traveling all over the world, I haven’t met yet such welcoming people like the
Icelanders (and I am from Brazil!!). But anywhere I was visiting or talking to
people they were all opened to answer all my questions, they were interested
about what I was doing and, of course, they were inviting me to drink beer!
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"Cheers" in Icelandic |
And, it was over some beer drinking that I talked to the people
and I found out the real “strong” history about the beer and the alcohol
consumption in Iceland.
So the funny fact started in 1908 with a referendum where the Icelanders voted in favour of
a ban on all alcoholic drinks, going into effect 1 January 1915 (because
they had to finish all the remain alcohol). Probably somebody thought that the Icelanders
were drinking too much, maybe true!
In 1922, came the trade embargo from Spain, where the Spanish
said they would not buy the ‘bacalhau’ (salted codfish) from Iceland, if
Iceland do not buy their wine. Since the bacalhau was the only product that
Iceland was exporting, they decided it was a good idea. Therefore, the Spanish
saved Iceland bringing their wine! The law was amended and the economy flows
again.
Since they started to have their homebrew (when the Spanish
was brought to Iceland), in 1933 there was a referendum to bring the alcohol
back, but just spirits were legalized. Beer above 2,25% alcohol was still
banned! What?? Exactly! For some reason the people who could vote in the
referendum where men above 40 years old and in good financial condition, and
they thought that if beer was allowed children and poor people would start to get
addicted and would create a social problem since beer was cheaper to buy.
Nevertheless, in 1939, during the WWII, the beer production
started “officially” with the Britain arrival. Well, not exactly, what it was
made was a Polar Ale, but it was made for export, since inside any country army
base is consider export, right?
One year later, in 1940, the Americans arrived (with bigger
guns), so you must keep them happy, and in order to that, the Polar Ale recipe
was changed and transformed in a lager, together with a good marketing.
During this time, people in Iceland could drink beer if ‘inside’
one of those bases; however, it was still forbidden outside it.
On Wednesday though was consider an alcohol free day, because
it was a day off in the American base and to avoid the innocent women going out
with the American soldiers this law was created. I have to mention here that it
didn’t work really well, since I met some people that was a result of this
alcohol free Wednesday!
Bills to legalize beer were regularly put to the Icelandic
parliament, but they were always rejected. In order to get around this,
Icelanders would try to imitate the real thing by adding legal spirits to legal
non-alcoholic beer, called Pilsner. On 1 March 1989, ironically, Wednesday,
was declared a law where would be allowed again the production of beer for the
intern market. It actually became a huge news in the world. However, you still cannot
find anything stronger
than 2.25% in any shop except the state-run chain Vínbúðin (meaning the wine
shop).
Nowadays, Iceland is producing a very good quality in
general, and many styles. In addition, what helps to make this beer so good is
their Icelandic water, very pure and famous!
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The different beers brewed by Ölgerdin Egil Skallagrímsson |
Their main and bigger brewery is Ölgerdin Egill Skallagrímsson and they also own a microbrewery, the Borg, where they use like
a playground to create and try new recipes and seasonal beers.
Most part of the beers I have tried while I was in Iceland
where from them, like:
Gull:
a lager beer, with a strong floral aroma, very fresh and citrusy. It was consider
the best standard lager by the WBA (World Beer Awards) 2011. Its name comes
from de word Skull that is used in Icelandic to say Cheers and a Viking way! ABV:
5%.
Sumar
Gull: more floral aroma than the Gull and also lighter to the palate,
extremely fresh. ABV: 5%.
Bríó:
german pilsner. WBA in 2012. Its floral hoppy aroma given with some tangerine
notes makes this beer worth an award. ABV: 4,8%.
Polar Beer: American lager. Aroma is mixed of
flowers and citrusy. ABV: 4,7%
Úlfur nr.
3: an IPA, has a unique floral bouquet in its aroma, the color is a beautiful
medium yellow and the taste is slightly bitter, but which IPA is not? But, so far,
this has become my favorite IPA! ABV: 5,9%
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The many awards!
Myrkvi nr.
13: a porter. If you like chocolate and beer, you will love this one! The dark
chocolate aroma, together with a cappuccino/port wine taste makes this soft
porter the ideal desert by itself! ABV: 6%
Garún nr.
19: an Icelandic Stout. It is named after a legendary woman from one of the
most famous tales in Iceland (The
deacon of Dark River (Myrká)). It has a very strong character with
coffee coming as a first thought when you smell and look at it. It is very licorish
and reminds a lot when you have a coffee toffee, however this one is extremely
alcoholic with ABV: 11,5%.
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But if you are in Iceland and want to try a good selection
of local and imported beers, you should go to the Micro Bar, located inside the
Center Hotel. They offer on tap 10 local beers that you can try the small sample
combination. In those 10 are:
Gaedingur
Stout: roasted coffee and nuts aroma. It is very soft to drink.
Bruggsmidjon
IPA: very hoppy and floral.But one of the bitterest IPA I have ever tried.
Gaedingur
IPA: citrusy and orange zest aroma. In addition, you can feel it in the
palate.
Gaedingur
Hveittbjor: wheat beer. Very hazy but smells like roses and taste like
fennel tea. Great option if you are not a beer fan and want to start in this
world (maybe just to follow your boyfriend/husband).
Nordan Kaldi:
lager. ABV 5%.
Gaedingur
Imperial Stout: at the day I was there, it unfortunately was not available.
ABV: 5%
Skjálfti:
lager. Barley and breadcrumb aroma. ABV 5%.
Lava:
stout. Roast coffee notes and espresso taste. It feels strong and heavy.
Gestir:
double IPA. The citrus aroma from the hops is something that comes out at a
first thought.
Gaedingur
Pale Ale: it reminds a floral parfum. Extremely refreshing. ABV 4,5%.
As
you can see, Gaedingur and Ölvisholt Brugghús are also important breweries in Iceland.
Wherever
you go in Iceland and Reykjavik, enjoy the best of it, people are amazing and
very warm welcoming!
I
have to thank to everyone who made my visit in there some amazing and memorable,
especially Sylvia from the Ölgerdin Egill Skallagrímsson and Steinn from Microbar.
I learnt a lot with both of you and I hope I can visit you soon!
Needless
to say, such a small country with great beer and great people is always worth a
visit!